Tag Archives: amplifiers

We have had several questions about guitar amps – what “watts” and “ohms” means, and that sort of thing. David Stewart’s Guide To Specs had a really good article that answered this question.

Guitar amp watts and ohms.

Here are three common and related questions. In guitar amps how do the “watts” and “ohms” relate to the sound? Is louder necessarily better? And, do more watts and more ohms equal louder?

Let’s start with the third question. Watts relate to power. How much power or energy an amp is capable of putting into a speaker is rated in watts. How much energy a speaker is capable of handling is its wattage rating. Ohms relate to how much resistance (impedance) there is to the transfer of this energy. Everything has some resistance to the flow of electricity – some materials (insulators) much more than others (conductors). If a speaker has “more ohms” then it actually has a higher resistance to the transfer of energy. This means that (all other things being equal) it will not be as loud as an otherwise identical speaker with a lower impedance rating.

This does not mean that lower ohm rated speakers are “better.” It is simply a functional difference that can be used to one’s advantage when putting together a system. In some situations it is desirable to have multiple speakers, but when multiple speakers are added in parallel the net load on the amplifier can drop to dangerously low levels. (There are a couple of other Tech Tips about this in the archives if you want more background.)

That’s one example of where higher impedance speakers can be a benefit. All other things being equal, the transfer of more energy (more watts) to a speaker will result in louder sound. People generally buy higher wattage amps because they need more volume. There are other factors such as speaker sensitivity, efficiency, etc., but in general more watts means more volume.

But does it mean better – or even different – sound quality? From an engineering perspective ideally the sound shouldn’t change…but it does. Loudspeakers of all makes and models have different operational characteristics at different energy levels. There are many, many variables involved in this: a very complex set of dynamics with regard to electricity in coils, magnets, and the resulting magnetic fields, combined with the complex mechanical dynamics of getting an object to vibrate in a very tightly controlled fashion against the resistance of air inside a cabinet and the space it is placed within, not to mention the additional magnetic energy put back into the coil of wire (and ultimately the amp) as a result of the speaker moving.

This is a science (art?) that is far from perfect. Tremendous improvements have been made in the past couple of decades. It is now possible to buy loudspeakers that are very linear (though still far from perfect) when operated within their optimal range of tolerance. In the old days speakers would take on radically different sonic characteristics when driven near their operational limits (this is still true of modern speakers today, only the area of significant non-linearity is much, much closer to the upper limit of where failure will occur).

For engineers designing and operating systems where accurate sound reproduction was a significant concern, this was an obstacle that could be worked around to some extent – they simply made sure the energy transfer to the speaker kept it in or near its ideal operating range. Well, guitarists have been notoriously not interested in “accurate” sound reproduction. It didn’t take them long to discover the sonic changes that occur when speakers are driven up to the edge. And, as they say, the rest is history.

To finally answer the question, with certain speakers there can be a desirable sonic benefit to driving them with more power (watts). Your results will vary dramatically depending on many factors, including choice of amp, speaker, age (and operating history) of speaker, cabinet, and any other variable that could change the sound of your guitar. Whether these changes in sound result in “better” sound is of course up to the individual.

What about amps? All of these same concepts apply, just for different technical reasons. Much like speakers, every tube and every transistor has more and less linear ranges of operation, not to mention other components in the amp. Even when a transistor or tube is operated entirely within its “linear range” the combination of components that make up an amplifier can still behave differently at different levels. Again, in the most modern and highest quality designs these changes are extremely minute.

In the older days one could hear a significant difference in a tube amp when driven as compared to how it sounded at lower levels. Are these changes always considered improvements? No, usually not…but to guitarists…well, you get the idea. Now, when combining these amps and speakers together one has created a unique and dynamic beast with an incredibly complex set of interactions.

Turn up the volume of an old Marshall stack to significantly high levels and you will most certainly hear dramatic changes in sound, even before what most of us would normally characterize as conventional distortion sets in. Are these changes the result of amplifier non-linearity or speaker non-linearity? Yes. Any rock guitarist who has been around a while will tell you there is nothing like the sound of an old Marshall (or any of a number of other amps of the era) wound up. Even the most current and sophisticated modeling techniques are just beginning to skim the surface of addressing the variation in sounds that occur when a certain pickup on a certain guitar, with certain strings, going into a certain amp at a certain volume (and tone control setting) reacts with a certain set of speakers.

Posted by Ben Edwards.

buying a guitar amp 300x133 Buying An Electric Guitar AmpThere is an ongoing argument among guitarists over the relative importance of a good guitar as opposed to a good guitar amp. It simply comes down to money. Not every one can buy the exact gear that they want so often it is a trade off. While spending a bit more time and money on getting a good amp seams like common sense, many players think the opposite. Because musical equipment isn’t cheap, it is a good idea to try out as many different amp and guitar combinations within your price range as you can.

Remember a bad amp can make a good guitar sound bad and a good amp can make a bad guitar sound good. For this reason it is important not to neglect your amp when you are guitar shopping.

There are basically four different types of guitar amplifiers: tube, analog (solid state), digital and hybrids. This article will give brief description of the different types of amps out there.

Tube Amplifiers
The first amps ever made were tube amps and many players still prefer them over analogue or digital amps. The reason for this is that tube amps have a fat warm tone that many guitarists find natural. Also tube amps are generally louder than analog or digital amps with the same wattage. (There aren’t many among us who don’t like having more power on stage.)

newsletter14 gear review buyinganamp tube Buying An Electric Guitar Amp

Most tube amps have separate channels for distortion and clean sounds. The distortion in tube amps is generally made by overdriving the preamp. There are two major draw backs with tube amps: one is that tubes are made of glass and can be broken easily if you don’t treat your amp properly, also tubes wear out and need to be replaced periodically.

Solid State (analog) amplifiers
The reason that these types of amps are called ‘solid state’ is that they use transistors in their pre and power amps instead of tubes. The main problem with solid state is that they can often sound brittle and harsh. This is particularly the case with their distortion channels. The quality of the distortion on solid state amps can vary wildly and it is something you should defiantly check when you are looking at a solid state amp. Solid state amps are very reliable, inexpensive and they don’t have any pesky tubes to replace and for these reasons they remain popular with some guitarists.
newsletter14review buyinganamp solidstatejpg Buying An Electric Guitar Amp
Digital (modeling) amplifiers
Modeling amps use digital processors so that the amp can mimic many other amp sounds. They can copy sounds from old or new style tube amps using onboard software. These types of amps are quite popular at this time and will only become more popular as they improve in quality and become cheaper. Some of these amps are better in quality than others, for those at the top of the range most guitarists will not be able to hear the difference between them and the real thing.

Hybrid amplifiers
Some guitar manufactures have come out with amps that combine a tube preamp and a solid state power amp. The most well known of these is the Marshall Valvestate Series of amps. These amps are a cheap way of getting a tube sound when you are on a budget.

Buying an amp
The best way to buy an amp is to shop around. Take your electric guitar (if you have one) into a few stores and try out a few different amps. Try amps from different price ranges to see if you can hear any difference. Perhaps take a more experienced guitarist with you. Listen to their advice and try out as many amps as you can. Try playing the amp at different volumes to see if it responds well. Check all the different channels to make sure it sounds cool both clean and distorted. Take your time buying an amp. If you choose wisely, you can get a piece of equipment that will make you sound better and should last you a long time.

That is all for now!

Ben Edwards

POST UPDATED – see comments for more guitar tone information !!

Jamie from the US has asked us how to get a fat tone from his Les Paul. Well, tone is a particularly personal matter but also comes in as many flavours as the imagination. There is no single method, set up or solution. Alot of TONE variation is achievable simply through your guitar to start with. If you simply use your neck pick up you will find the tone becomes more warm, more naturally rounded, rich, arboreal and smooth. Compliment this through changing your tone selector pot and you`ll be on the way. A tube or valve amp such as a Vox AC 30, or a Sunn amp will also help. Personally I use an Award Session amplifier.

It`s best to experiment with as much gear as you can. If you can`t get hold of a valve amp try a valve based pedal – maybe an Electro Harmonix English MuFF`n or Big Muff PI. These things`ll give you a fat range of tones from Clapton through to Leslie West and more. You could of course hitch a ride along the digital highway and look at stuff like the Line 6.